Eduardo Brethauer is a journalist, writer and traveler. Author of the hilarious wine guide Vinos con Cuento. Owner and Wine Editor of Vitis Magazine. Member of the Circle of Wine Writers, La Commenda Major de Rosselló and Círculo de Cronistas Gastronómicos y de Vino de Chile. Founder of Vignadores de Carignan, a unique association of producers that reinvented a viticultural tradition of 5 centuries in Maule Valley. He doesn’t believe in scores. “They’re fuckin’ stupid”, claims. He and his brilliant collaborators are always seeking for character and identity. Their goal is to rescue and put in value wines, spirits and food treasures from forgotten corners of the world.
GUILTY AS CHARGED
We must blame the Jesuits. Not to wash heads or butts, but to introduce the first species of vitis vinifera in the American continent during the XVI century. The País (Listán Prieto, strictly speaking) was the chosen one. A meat-dog strain, resistant to diseases and with antioxidants to protect parishioners' conscience.
À LA VÔTRE!
Chilean plutocracy, sybarite and Frenchish, smuggled the first Bordeaux stakes in the 19th century. The Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère and Merlot landed. They were finally able to toast with a noble concoction. Long ago that the Jesuits had been expelled. Mon Dieu, why continue to suffer with their scraper wines!
We have to say things as they are: until the arrival of Miguel Torres, in the twilight of the 70s, Chilean wines were smelly. With the introduction of new technologies, the wines became more frank and cleaner. It was an industrial revolution. Only comparable with the use of shampoo and deodorant by public transport passengers.
Chile was a country of reds. Whites were losers. With the first plantations in the coastal Casablanca, in the mid-80s, Chilean were able to splash on the beach, to bottle white and light reds much more fresh, vibrant and deep, to look forward, to feel that there no limits.
UNDER THE LA LAVA
Today Chile is an erupting volcano. When the smoke is cleared, and under a thick layer of lava, we may discover wines from old heritage strains (the revenge of the Jesuits), impossible places, unconventional blends, biodynamic, organic and natural philosophy, exciting and a few stupid styles. As never before, consumers can jump on one leg.